Friday, November 25, 2011

Since the tank area was opened I spray some oil to fight rust and mice.

Here is the new upper ball joint...

I've used a hand made starter tool to extract the ball joint seat. The diameter and thread of the tool to extract the seat is 12mm x 1.0; I've used 12 x 1.25 which did not matter since the seat is good for the garbage anyway.

Since I was lubing the ball joints, I did 15 pumps on the drive shaft.

Friday, November 18, 2011

Ball joints...

 There is still a drip at the drain plug of the gear box even after a new copper washer and some aviation sealer. It is wet on the side and above; I suspect a leak at the seam.

The upper ball joint is apart.

There was a little ridge on the side which I erased (Which may have produced binding with a thinner ring). I removed .25 mm on the ring.  

The ball joint is tight, smooth and has no binding.

The upper one had a big play; about .4mm.

Turned out that it is not salvageable. I am waiting for a new upper ball joint from Dave Burnham.

Thursday, November 17, 2011

Heater core, gear box and oil change...

 The rear right boot is done.

The connection at the rear left cylinder is holding; no leak.

The heater core cleaned up well with acid; not 100% unclogged but it is delivering plenty of heat now.

I have reversed the straps holding the tank for better access in the future.

Everything is back on.

I have used 3M flexible body sealer to seal the heater core into its housing.

The Hydraulic filter was dirty but not too much.

The Dextron is now replaced with Hyken Glacial Blu.

The gear box had only 1.75 pint of fluid instead of over 2 quarts. Red Line is in it now.

Took a while to fill the gear box since the radiator was changed and the fill plug is inaccessible.

I have bent back the valence to gain access to the crank fro future use.

The front pads have plenty of meat... 

... but the right rotor is grooved.

The front outer boot (Right side) has been destroyed for a while; it is supposed to protect the CV joint.

The oil change is done using VR1 20W50. Before it I've used Marvel Mystery Oil in the crank case for 1/2 hr, poured some in the carb and put the rest in the tank. This might help the compression after a while.

I've torqued the bolts to 10 ft/lbs but one felt strange and probably was stripped at some point. I did not insist; something to be aware of with future oil changes.

Friday, November 11, 2011

Rear right cylinder boot and rod...

The rear right boot was held by a Chrysler type  clamp; very hard to remove.

Yep, silicone to plug the hole :oO

Another Chrysler type clamp inside the boot; I had to use a Dremell to cut it.

The rod was welded back together in the past.

Someone attempted to grind the end of the rod.

Should be good now.

The ball socket was pretty bad also.

Hopefully the "click" will disappear when she rises.

Ligarex and fabric tape.

The piston is pretty worn. I have polished it and changed the O ring inside the cylinder; hopefully this will reduce the leak. 

Thursday, November 10, 2011

Rear suspension cylinder...

 I've restored the thread as well as possible; not perfect but hopefully it will work.

Removed the groove on the suspension rod.

A plastic version of the Ligarex ;o)

Smoothed out the groove inside the socket and put a new ball (Should take care of the cracking noise while raising).

Since the car was sagging very quickly on the back, I've changed the O ring inside the cylinder while  it was out.

I had to make a new pin since the old one broke at removal.

In place.